Jakarta reminds me of Hong Kong: sky-scrappers, malls, many expensive shops, beautiful people and severe contrasts: very rich and very poor people live in this city.
It needs some changes, since everybody suffers form Jakarta's huge traffic. There is no underground, justified by the fear of earthquakes (and also the possibility of homeless people making it their home).
Anyway, I had a lovely time there: stayed with the fascinating Katoppo-couple, Mimis and Tides, who provided me a very cosy stay. Mimis Katoppo is a beautiful lady related to the Kraton of Solo and Aristides Katoppo, born in Celebes, used to be a journalist. Together, they exemplify the spirit of Indonesia's tolerance, as Mimis is Muslim and Tides is Christian. Strange for a westerner, this is a very common place in Indonesia.
During these days, I went with Mimis to a concert on the National Radio of Indonesia; went around with Fx Harsono another day to visit galleries and exhibitions; passed by the Embassies of Portugal and East-Timor; went to UNESCO's office in Jakarta and actually did no shopping, because I was not in the mood for it, even if Jakarta has it all.
I had lunch in the beautiful Residency of the Portuguese Embassador, with him and his wife. It felt really good to eat Portuguese food, drink Portuguese red wine and taste Portuguese deserts! And also it was very nice to know the interest of Linda in batik!
I also met Iwan Tirta again. Iwan Tirta doesn't stop surprising me with all his wisdom about Indonesia, its culture and heritage.
His wisdom relies on the fact that he learned directly with Hardjonegoro (the creator of Batik Indonesia for President Soekarno) and in his dedication to learn beyond his master and preserve and export the heritage of Batik. Iwan is nowadays considered the "living-legend" of Indonesian Batik.
Mimis Katoppo is also doing something very important for the Batik preservation: she is revitalizing the batik industry in rural areas where it has disappeared, due to industrialization and migration movements. New forms and patterns are emerging from this.
So, Iwan is more foreign-oriented and Mimis is more community-oriented.
Both are mastering these projects with one common-belief: that if one wants to know about Java and the culture of its Kratons, should go to Solo, Cirebon or Yogyakarta and stay inside the court palaces learning Javanese language, batik and performing arts (dances,wayang and karawitan). The true heritage-keepers are nowadays the oficials of these palaces. With them, we can learn the philosophy of Javanese culture, a culture of non-confrontation that is so present in the mentality of the nation.
I am going to take the challenge one day, as discovering the culture of this archipelago doesn't stop fascinating me.
Salam, noor
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