Monday 11 January 2010

indonews 2010: Jogja Jammin

Yesterday I had a very very productive day: woke up at 5 am because of the chicken singing as the sun rises - now is 5.33 am, so here we go again :).
It's difficult to sleep in Java. More or less same size as my country, here they have 200 million people (we have 10...). So there is no free room for anybody! the mosques, the motorcicles, the people, the chicken...oh busy busy!

I went to send an Indonews very fast, and then I walked to my Batik teacher, Aguk Santoro, in Desa Cemeti, Pasar Burung.
I am making another portrait for a friend in Lisbon, and it will be good to refresh my skill in batik.
Aguk 3 years ago didn't have so much work, and I brought him many students from my friends from outside: Josef and Alexandra from Slovaquia, Piero and Mimma from Italy, Karl from Germany. Like me, everybody was here meeting him, because Aguk and IBu Asri are such nice people. For my surprise he told me he does not teach anymore. To busy making batik to take to Jakarta, circa 100 pieces a month. But he accepeted to teach me again and I brought Anna from Poland and Paulo from Brazil. Special for them because of me :)

After eating a mie goreng by Ibu Asri, I went to JNM (Jogja National Museum). There was an exhibtion from the Biennial I still didn't see and also a public discussion.
I once again, enjoyed very much the exhibtion. Fantastic art. The discussion was held in Bahasa Indonesia, I could not understand anything but few words, but I recorded for future reference. I am sure I will need and enjoy it one day.
While I was there, Pak Fx Harsono called me. Was already in Yogya, coming from Jakarta (JKT).
We have been in contact for a month now. I was very interested in talking with him. It's a happy coincidence that we can meet here, as Fx is based in JKT.

Fx Harsono gave me a very good interview and also I also had a great time with him after.
Founding member of GSRB (New Art Movement) in 1975, a reaction at Soeharto's time of oppresive regime, he nowadays works as an artist and is Professor in University Pelita Harapan in JKT. He will launch an exhibtion in Milan this month along with 9 more artists from Indonesia.

On the way to JNM, in a becak (traditional transport in Yogya) we talked about other things. I could not stop recording, he is too interesting and everything he talks about is relevant.

After arriving there, networking became much easier: Fx knows everybody and I was sucessfull in meeting Pak Hendro Wiyanto, a Curator based in JKT that Alia Swastika (also a curator, but my age) told me to meet. Hendro kindly talked to me after hours in Via-via cafe, while having his dinner. What he said again was very relevant, and somehow good because he contradicted me various times. Also, he confirmed my fascination for Soekarno Era, explaining to me that the prefix "soe" means good, fine or other things. So, now I understand so many names... :)

I asked - why Yogyakarta? There is so much money in Bali, why is Yogyakarta so important in the arts?
Apparently between 1946 and 1949 Yogya became the political capital. And everything moved here, but apparently the arts stayed... easier atmosphere maybe!
I never read about this political incident and have to deepen my knowledge in other libraries, maybe in UGM or so..

I met an artist that I love, Dadang Christanto that I decided not to put in my dissertation because he lives in Australia. I taught it would be impossible to meet him! But this is so nice, he was here, and I really was pleased to meet him, because he is so good. Yogya is the place! I also met the Rector of ISI, Pak Soeprapto Soedjono and his wife. Very nice to meet them again, after Lisbon in past November.

With Fx introducing me to everybody I felt at home and had a great time.
We came later to Kedai Kebun Forum (KKF), 1 block from where I am staying and they were having a post-biennial discussion, in Bahasa Indonesia of course. I already knew Nina, from KKF, she gave me my Javanese name in 2006! Many people don't believe I am noor and I say I am not, but I love the name I got in Indonesia. But I am noor on facebook, it's much more effective internationaly then Leonor.

Here, people make the art scene happen. There is no support form the state, nothing. Well, maybe some for the biennials ;)
That is why meetings like this one are normal here, people struggle to work, do things, etc.
And look how effective they are: Indonesian artists are everywhere in the world, specially since the early 1990's in Venice and São Paulo biennals, last year in Lyon Biennial as well, have been in Haus der Kultur der Welt in Berlin, and now they are entering the galleries of Europe. I want these people in Portugal one day!

Isabel Carlos, our most international curator - did the 2004 Sydney Biennial and the 2009 Sarjah Biennial - asked me before I came to look for artists from East Timor. I have news: mostly all of them study in Yogyakarta. Apparently there is no place there and to study the east-timorese have to come to Indonesia. So, Yogyakarta is many times the preferable option. So maybe I run into someone!

Yes things take time, but I want to dedicate myself to Asia. I know this categorization is very dangerous, categorizing is always bad, but I need this to explain. East Africa also interests me, but for its "Asianess". I sometimes say that the first time I was in India (or I felt close to India) was in Ilha de Mozambique! So India has been contaminating that geographical area through sea trading for ages.

I would like to point out that I write these emails also to let go my memories: as a child I wrote diary. But I think sharing is nice. I don't mean to be an art critic, or historian or intelectual. Just entertainer.
So please understand if I point out the names and places but am not explaining further - you can google!
I have an MA to write...this is communicating with my friends, family and thanking people for their support.

Next time I write about other people. I will not forget anybody, I promise.
Thank u Fx, it was amazing being with you.

Salam, noor

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